Horween Shell Cordovan Q&A
What Is Shell Cordovan?
Genuine Shell Cordovan represents the art of tanning at its finest. This exceptional leather is sourced from the shell membrane of a horsehide, requiring at least six months to complete the tanning process.
To reach and expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). The irregular oval-shaped shells are tanned, slowly steeped in gentle vegetable liquors, stuffed, shaved, and then polished. The shells are genuine hot stuffed and then slicked onto glass frames to dry. Each shell is hand-curried and shaved by highly skilled artisans to expose the shell. Dyes are hand-rubbed on for a deep aniline finish. Finally, the shells are hand-glazed to achieve the rich, glossy look and feel prized by fine craftsmen.
Please email our leather consultants for Cordovan pricing and availability
Horween Shell Cordovan Colors
What to expect when ordering Horween Shell Cordovan:
Thickness variation in Shell Cordovan
The weight (thickness) of Horween Shell Cordovan varies naturally. At the center, it typically measures around 4 oz (1.6–1.8 mm), while the outer edges taper down to 3–3.5 oz (1.2–1.4 mm).
This variation occurs because the leather is shaved down to expose the actual shell membrane, resulting in natural weight variation both within a single shell and from shell to shell.
Due to the natural thickness variations, splitting can be difficult and should be done with care. We do not offer splitting services at this time.
Color variation in Shell Cordovan
Since Shell Cordovan is fully vegetable-tanned and hand-finished, each piece will have unique tonal differences. Color variations are expected, even among shells of the same color.
Black tends to be the most consistent in terms of color variation. Generally, the lighter the shade of Shell Cordovan, the more noticeable the variations will be.
Shell Cordovan shapes will vary. No two are alike.
Shell membranes are naturally irregular—no two are identical. As a natural material, each shell varies from skin to skin, making uniformity impossible.
Other tanneries achieve more regular shapes by simply cutting ovals from finished leather. Unlike Horween, they do not fully expose the true shell membrane. This process results in a more uniform appearance but lacks the authenticity and character of genuine Shell Cordovan.
Shell Cordovan isn’t flawless & its imperfections make it unique
Imperfections are a natural part of leather, and Shell Cordovan is no exception. These unique characteristics add to its authenticity and individuality. While minor defects may occur, rest assured that you are not paying for unusable areas. As mentioned above, Horween factors in imperfections by adjusting the shell’s size category before assigning a final grade.
Marks or small holes are not considered grounds for rejection—they're simply part of the material’s story. The key is to approach cutting with care, working around these natural variations to make the most of each piece.
Below is an overview of the characteristics you can expect when purchasing Shell Cordovan.
Horween Shell Cordovan Grading
There are 8 classifications or grades of Horween Shell Cordovan. Each grade corresponds to a range of square feet in which the shell can fall. In addition to the overall size of the shell, imperfections and defects are taken into account and subtracted from the base square footage.
Horween Shell Cordovan is graded based on two factors:
1. The overall size of the shell
2. The cuttable area of the shell
This means is the imperfections and blemishes in the shell are taken into account when it's graded.
FOR EXAMPLE:
This shell is 2.3 square feet, which would put it in the Large category without human inspection.
However, upon final inspection, markings / blemishes / imperfections were taken into account that were subtracted from the usable area of the shell.
The final grading of the shell is Medium.
Shells are not sorted based on how they look on the unfinished side.
Guidelines on Dimension
Grade refers to the square footage of the cuttable area, but we understand that dimensions are just as important when planning your patterns.
Below, you'll find various grades displayed alongside a 12-inch (30 cm) red ruler for reference. This provides a visual guideline to help estimate sizing.
As noted, Shell Cordovan naturally varies in shape and size—no two shells are exactly alike. These measurements serve as a general reference to assist in your selection.
Chips: 0.8-0.9 square feet of cuttable area
L: 2.0-2.4 square feet of cuttable area
XS: 1.2-1.4 square feet of cuttable area
XL: 2.5-2.9 square feet of cuttable area
S: 1.5-1.6 square feet of cuttable area
XXL: 3.0 + square feet of cuttable area
M: 1.7-1.9 square feet of cuttable area
Expected variations & imperfections in Shell Cordovan
Remember, you’re not paying for these areas. Horween Shell Cordovan is graded on two factors. Both the overall size of the shell and the cuttable area. This means they take into consideration the imperfections and defects that inevitably occur in the shell membrane.
HOLES – In some cases, defects are difficult to see and it open up in the lasting process of the shoe manufacturing. Holes occur when Horween notes a defect within the shell that was either inherent to the skin or due to manufacturing and is cut out of the shell.
Shoe manufacturers that use shell asked many years ago that Horween remove issues we see at the final QC sort. Horween is cutting out the defect in order to more easily allow the manufacturer to see the defects and place their patterns accordingly.
WHITE DOTS - The white dots are the natural hair follicles that can be seen within the Cordovan. The reason these can be visible is due to the process where Horween shave the shells from the underside of the skin (the flesh side) to properly expose the shell. There are times that shell shaving will expose the natural hair root of the hide. Horween tries to minimize this though it is a natural character of this unique product. Hair follicles are never considered a defect.
TWO TONED/LINE DOWN MIDDLE - This is an inevitable part of the manufacturing process of the shell membrane. The lines come from the shaving process of the shell cordovan. The shell membrane is shaved by a skilled technician who is using a foot pedal to adjust the pressure of the shaving mechanism. It requires multiple passes to achieve an even level shell.
BOTTOM AREA - The bottom of the shell is an area where the shell membrane ends and the rough surface within the piece of leather is actually an area where the leather has the natural fiber structure rather than the smooth shell.
DULL SHELL – When the oils and waxes move to the surface of the shell, it can appear dull. You should be able to use a soft cloth and rub them back in. This along with the polishing of the finished products should bring it back to a beautiful luster.
SCRATCHES / SCARS – Scars are an inherent part of leather. Cordovan is no different. Scratches happen for a variety of reasons, but are often able to be buffed out or filled in with the Saphir polishing products.
Marbled Shell Cordovan pieces have unique markings—lines, scratches, white marks.
White Marks
If you see a small white mark, this due to the leather being bent and the waxes are creating a white break. This should come out when working the leather with a Cordovan care product (we recommend Saphir).
Small Scratches
There can sometimes be small scratches that are seen due to the process of removing the color ahead of refinishing the leather. The tannery removes the color by the shaving process, and unfortunately this procedure leaves lines in the marbled product. This is an inherent part of the finished leather.
Lines
The lines are just the color difference when we are removing the color from the first round of finishing.
Horween Shell Cordovan Stamps
Each piece of Shell Cordovan receives a single oval stamp—with the exception of Natural and Bourbon.
For most colors, the stamp is placed on the back of the shell. However, Natural and Bourbon do not always receive a stamp because the ink can transfer to the front, potentially causing a stain. If you’d like a stamp on your Natural or Bourbon shells, you must request it and accept the risk of ink transfer. While we take every precaution to minimize this, it cannot be guaranteed.
Can I Get More Than One Stamp on My Shell Cordovan?
No—each shell is strictly limited to one stamp.
Shell Cordovan Color Comparison
Natural Shell Cordovan
Natural is the most aniline color made as it does not incorporate any dyes in the procedure and is finished using clear coats.
When will you have Whiskey Shell Cordovan again?
At this time, Horween does not have a plan to provide whiskey again. The dyes that were used to make Whiskey are now obsolete for environmental reasons and the replacement dyes do not allow us to make the color.
The closest color that Horween makes is Bourbon. Whiskey was a bit more yellow than Bourbon.
Is there gray Shell Cordovan?
No, we do not offer a gray shade in Shell Cordovan. The main reason is that Horween only use aniline dyes (stains) to hand finish the leather. Gray colors need pigments to create the final color and Horween does not use any pigments in the finishing of Shell Cordovan.
Other asked about Shell Cordovan colors
Brandy, Color 6, Calvados, Gunmetal, Ivywood, Saddle: These are colors that have been made in the past by Horween, but we won't be seeing anytime soon.
Walnut was been done in the past, and the closest thing now is Dark Cognac.
Ravello, Cigar: Alden exclusive colors
Chili is the same color as Garnet.
Shell Cordovan Care Tips
How to Take Care of Shell Cordovan
Brands we suggest to use on your Shell Cordovan are Saphir, Kiwi, Kellys, and Venetian Cream.
We only recommend the liquid creams listed above, as others contain high solvent levels that can be harmful to the leather over time. Using the wrong product on your Shell Cordovan may compromise its integrity and longevity.
Tips for Taking Care of Cordovan Shoes
It is important to care for the leather after the shoes are worn. There are no specific steps for care as most companies and customers have found a process that works best for their shoe and the final product. Most will agree that there should be some minimal care through some easy steps and the below are most common:
For general cleaning and polishing:
Clean shoes with damp cloth
Brush vigorously with a horsehair brush
Buff with smooth cloth
Use wax or polish after 10-15 wearings. Applying too much wax will build up the surface and create a cloudy looking product.
The process is really best summarized by one of the style forums:
"The point of all this being that for Shell Cordovan you want to bring out the natural luster from within, not put a shine on top using polishes. The more buildup there is, the worse Shell will look. Less is more."
The other key is that using a shoe tree when the shoes are not in use will help keep the shape.
How do I Waterproof My Cordovan Shoes?
Shell Cordovan is exceptionally durable. The pores are so dense on the hindquarters of a horse that they are not visible to the naked eye. The hide is naturally resistant to water (though not impervious).
Each pair of cordovan shoes is somewhat unique. This is due to the secondary finishing of each shell done by the shoe manufacturers (it varies), and the cumulative effect of all the conditioning and polishing the consumer has done to the shoes since they left the factory.
The key with Cordovan is the after care. If the shoes get wet, it is important to wipe the shoes down with a product like the Saphir Cordovan Cream or Saphir Renovator. This should be applied to the shoes, and then polished. It should remove some of the water staining the leather picks up.
Since Cordovan is a straight vegetable tanned leather, the leather does pick up moisture and can swell when wet. The key is to dry the leather out properly when wet.
Additional Cordovan Questions
Is Cordovan leather available by the side?
No. Cordovan is a unique product produced from the hindquarter of a horsehide so by definition not available in a side.
Is Cordovan moldable?
Yes. Since Cordovan is a straight vegetable tanned leather, it will mold well. The key for moldabilty is based on the tannage.
Chrome: Chrome provide great heat resistance and strength
Vegetable: Provides great mold-ability and aging with patina
Tips for working with Cordovan leather:
The Cordovan can be a tricky leather to work with the first time.
This is a leather that is a full vegetable tanned product and is hand finished. The result is that there will be variation in color from each shell and likely variation within a shell.
The color on the Cordovan is directional and the parts need to be cut in the same direction to have a good color match in the final product (very important if you use two shells for the product).
Cordovan leather does not work well with heat (due to the vegetable tannage) and also does not handle steam well.
It is ok to wet the leather to work it during the manufacturing of the boot and excessive heat and steam will dry out the leather and create a raspy feel over the toe.
Does the color bleed when wet?
The darker the color the more the leather will bleed. All Cordovan (except Natural) will have color transfer. The reason for this is that the stains are applied by hand and there are no tops to seal the color when the leather is finished.
Are workshoe butts considered Shell Cordovan?
No. It is a different leather altogether.
Workshoe Butts are the whole butt of the horse with the shell still within the leather. The leather has not been shaved so the shell membrane is not exposed.
Workshoe Butts are combination tanned. They are pit tanned in the Cordovan vats for the first 30 days, then removed and re-tanned with a chrome tannage. Workshoe Butts are hot stuffed with a rich blend of oils and waxes and hand-finished with stains to achieve the final look.
Workshoe Butts are much firmer than Shell Cordovan.
How to Order Horween Shell Cordovan
How do I purchase Shell Cordovan?
Please email info@thetanneryrow.com
Shell Cordovan is not available to purchase online.
What is the lead time on Shell Cordovan?
Lead time can vary due to the demand, but current lead time is 2-4 weeks no matter the color.
Is there a minimum order quantity to purchase?
No. For all Tannery Row leather, there is just a 1 piece minimum quantity.
Are there discounts with volume orders?
No. Shell Cordovan is the same price no matter how many pieces you order.